Thứ Tư, 12 tháng 8, 2015
Why does fashion hate old people?
Why does fashion hate old people? Name withheld, by email You know, fashion gets a lot of grief from outsiders. Its fetishisation of skinniness, wealth, aesthetics, sexiness and, yes, youth, are all routinely used as sticks with which to beat it. Only last week Topshop was roundly mocked for using mannequins so skinny they barely made anatomical sense. And this is all perfectly to the right and well and good. Criticise away! Lord knows this column does it often enough. But here’s the rather uncomfortable truth about fashion: all it actually does is take society’s own desires, own attitudes, and exaggerate them shamelessly. This is certainly not to excuse the fashion industry’s loopiness, stupidity and even occasional amorality. But it does explain why, despite the general consensus that fashion is demented, the industry is enormously successful. This also, I suspect, clarifies why people get so upset by it. If fashion items were sold on promises to make everyone, say, grow a third arm, no one would give a good god damn. Instead, they would look at the adverts featuring three-armed models brandishing wildly expensive handbags (an extra arm so you can carry more £1,500 bags – genius!), shrug, laugh and carry on with their day. They would not campaign against these adverts on social media and newspapers would not run long think pieces about how this three-armed fascism was corrupting the minds of our young. The reason people – women, mainly, if we’re honest here – get so especially upset by the fashion industry’s obsession with youth and skinniness is because it is echoing that dark, cruel voice that lives in the heads of so many of us, the one that encourages our own self-loathing. For all that people criticise fashion’s obsession with thinness, the fact is it is very rare to find any non-fashion magazine that doesn’t in some way validate this view, by using very slim models or running nonsense articles about “detoxing” and “clean eating”. What the fashion industry does, really, is exploit our own worst thoughts about ourselves. Look, fashion is a billion–dollar industry, and you don’t make a billion dollars by being stupid (although an obvious exception to that rule comes in the form of future US president Donald Trump.) Which brings us, eventually, to its attitude towards old people and, in the fashion universe, this means anyone over the age of 40. Never mind the industry’s occasional inclusion of older women in advertising campaigns – such as Céline hiring Joan Didion, say, or Joni Mitchell shilling for Saint Laurent – because this is just about novelty, tokenism, faddishness, even. Having an older woman in a fashion campaign is the new having an overweight pop star appear in your fashion show, which was a very popular schtick about five years ago. It doesn’t mean the fashion industry actually thinks older women, or bigger women, are attractive, a point underscored by the fact that all the models on the runway are still themselves notably young and thin. It just means the industry wants to give itself a little pat on the back for being so deep it can occasionally deal with an older or bigger person (freaks) without actually vomiting all over its quilted Burberry jacket. Sticking with just the ageism issue for the moment, this is clearly a ridiculous state of affairs. Forget about the moral issue – it’s not even logical. Only a very small percentage of women can afford to buy designer clothes and, of those, an even tinier percentage of them are under 40. And yet, designers still insist on having their clothes modelled by extremely young women – children, in some cases, such as 14-year-old Sofia Mechetner, who appeared in Dior’s couture show last month. Do many 14-year-olds now buy couture? Is this what the kids are doing in between WhatsApping and taking something the media insists on calling “hippy crack”? I’m going to go with “no” here, so quite why a 14-year-old should be held up as the couture ideal by a design house is beyond me. Honestly, they may as well say couture should only be worn by mermaids. Iris Apfel: ‘People like me because I’m different’ Read more Which brings me to Iris Apfel, the 93-year-old fashion icon and designer, who worked for more than 40 years, with her equally impressive husband Carl, now 101, looking after the White House. Apfel is currently celebrated in the lovely documentary, Iris, directed by Albert Maysles, which I honestly could not recommend more strongly. If I had the space, I’d talk about the film and Apfel all day, but the point is that what the film shows most strongly is not just how brilliant fashion looks on older women, and how it’s older women who generally have the best sense of style, because they know themselves so well, but how much they are patronised by the rest of the world, and not just the fashion industry. Repeatedly, we see people talking to Apfel as if she were a child, which is how older people generally are treated by all of us. Yet the fact is that Apfel on a bad day is sharper than pretty much anyone on a good day and this condescension is as ridiculous as the fashion industry treating age like a disease that needs curing. But only criticising fashion for doing this is to be wilfully blind. The scary thing about the fashion industry is that, in a horrible way, it holds up a mirror to the faults within far too many of us.
5 High-Tech Car Safety Features You Shouldn’t Do Without
Safety features in cars are expensive, which is why automakers are often slow to adopt high-tech features that can add hundreds of dollars to the price of a car. Here are five emerging safety components growing in availability that we believe belong on your should-have list when shopping for a car. Inflatable Seat Belts Deploying like airbags, these seat belts inflate in a crash, spreading the impact force over an area five times larger than a conventional seat belt. And, like airbags, they inflate in milliseconds. Not only do they cushion the torso during a crash, but they minimize head and neck motion, reducing those injuries as well. Ford, which includes inflatable seat belts in some models, says they are particularly beneficial to children and older passengers. Ford began offering this feature in the second-row seat of Explorer in 2011, then expanded availability to other Ford and Lincoln models. Mercedes-Benz will offer them in some models, too. Lane-Departure Warning/Correction A majority of single-car accidents occur when the car runs off the road, and a substantial number of head-on collisions result from a car drifting into the oncoming lane. Using video or radar/laser technology, lane-departure warning (LDW) monitors the car’s location in relation to the edges of its lane and sounds a warning when it strays outside those boundaries. Some systems — like that of the redesigned 2015 Chrysler 200 — go as far as to nudge the vehicle back on course. Nearly every automaker offers a form of LDW on at least some of its models. Head-Up Display Head-up display (HUD) is a system that projects data on the windshield just below the driver’s sight line. Appearing roughly four feet in front of the driver and 8 to 10 inches above the car’s hood, the transparent information can include vehicle speed, turn signals, blind spot monitoring, turn-by-turn navigation, audio settings and more. HUD reduces the time a driver’s attention is away from the road, and that helps prevent accidents. Distracted driving includes everything from texting to turning around to yell at the kids, and the injuries from distraction-related accidents were up 9 percent in 2012 over 2011. It’s currently available in 38 models, according to Automotive News. Front/Rear Parking Sensors For a 5-foot, 8-inch tall driver, the blind spot behind a vehicle can extend from 9 feet for a hatchback to 24 feet for a pickup truck. Plenty of obstacles can lurk there. Although there are a few different types of systems used to warn drivers as they approach a solid object when parking, basically they operate by sending out pulses or waves, then measuring the return rate of those signals. The quicker the return, the closer the object. When engaged, the system usually uses a beeping sound that increases in frequency as the object grows closer. Frontal Crash Warning/Avoidance Driver distraction is the cause of many rear-end crashes. Frontal crash warning (FCW) uses radar or cameras to scan the road ahead, feeding the information to a computer that is constantly calculating the distance between the equipped car and whatever is ahead. When the distance decreases too quickly — especially if the driver doesn’t depress the brake — an alarm will sound. With some systems, the FCW will automatically apply the brakes. Buying a new car is the ideal time to brush up on the newest available safety features. A few are offered only in high-end models or pricey options packages, but you may be surprised at how accessible some of them are.
High-tech cars a hit with consumers
A majority of US drivers are willing to pay as much as US$1,499 to have high-tech entertainment and safety devices in their vehicles as consumers demand more connectivity, according to a Harris Poll. Back-up cameras, USB ports and smartphone charging are among the top desires, according to the online survey of 1,033 vehicle owners done for researcher AutoTrader.com. About 55 percent said music streaming services such as those of Pandora Media Inc and Spotify Ltd make driving more enjoyable. Advanced auto technologies will be on display at the Consumer Electronics Show opening in Las Vegas on Jan. 6, including self-driving cars, dashboards covered in curved touch screens and vehicles controlled by smartwatches. Automakers and suppliers are seeking a piece of the US$11.3 billion in factory-installed technologies going into cars this year, according to the Consumer Electronics Association. “Consumer electronics are quickly becoming a spectacle in the automotive industry,” Michelle Krebs, an analyst for AutoTrader, said in a statement today. “Consumers are spending more time and money on car technology and they are particular about what they’re buying.” If automakers come up with smart technology that’s easy to use, 51 percent of those surveyed said they would be willing to pay as much as US$1,499 for it. Half also said they would wait about a year to get a car with the advanced features they want. SELLING POINT In-vehicle technology is the top selling point for 39 percent of auto buyers, compared to the 14 percent who care most about horsepower and handling, according to a survey from consulting firm Accenture Plc. Internet-connected cars worldwide will grow more than fourfold to 152 million by 2020 from 36 million now, according to researcher IHS Automotive. The AutoTrader survey, conducted in October, also found that while only 3 percent of vehicle owners have Wi-Fi in their cars, almost two-thirds of those use it daily. About 48 percent of respondents expressed a desire for in-vehicle Wi-Fi. And 52 percent said automakers should invest to improve information and entertainment systems, rather than rely on better integrating smartphone functions into dashboard touch screens. “We’re in the information era and shoppers are informed and they are adamant about the features they want,” Krebs said. “From manufacturers to suppliers and even aftermarket consumer electronics companies, this study shows us that there is still plenty of opportunity in the vehicle electronics market.” QUALCOMM CONCEPTS Qualcomm Inc today showed high-speed Internet access technology in a 2015 Maserati Quattroporte GTS and a 2015 Cadillac XTS. The concept cars, using Qualcomm’s latest processors, demonstrate how services found on smartphones and tablets are making their way into vehicles. The Cadillac concept uses Google Inc’s Android operating system in dashboard touch screens with graphics that display navigation, music and live streaming of sports, news and entertainment. The Maserati concept has BlackBerry Ltd’s QNX operating system in rear-seat entertainment systems with touch screens that have tablet-like swipe-and-pinch controls and voice recognition, Qualcomm said in a statement. FCA US, formerly Chrysler Group, today said it’s adding services on its Uconnect dashboard infotainment system that help drivers find a car in a parking lot, provide navigation destinations to vehicles remotely and automatically send e-mails on a car or truck’s mechanical health. FCA said it also redesigned the Uconnect Access app to make it function faster and more intuitively.
High-tech gadgets to become the norm in new cars
There could be an increase in high-tech gadgets second hand car parts on the market in future years as manufacturers becoming ever more aware of the need to offer consumers the latest in entertainment and information technology. High-tech gadgets in future cars According to new research by KPMG, car manufacturers increasingly believe that high-tech gadgets and internet-connected devices will be key in attracting customers in the future. As such, many are looking at entering corporate partnerships with technology companies to bring these devices to their vehicles. A survey by KMPG found that 34 per cent of car executives expect that consumers’ purchasing decisions over the next five years will be driven by whether the car they purchase has internet connectivity and built-in technologies such as navigation with live traffic update, voice recognition and access to smartphones through steering wheel controls and the dashboard. This puts the importance of such features almost on par with car safety (37 per cent) and environmental friendliness (40 per cent). “Global car executives believe that as consumers become accustomed to instant access at home and in the office, customers will expect the same services when on the move in their vehicles. In the future, connectivity will not simply be a ‘nice to have’ feature but an intrinsic part of a vehicle,” said John Leech, head of automotive at KPMG. Meanwhile, the second hand car parts of the future could also include components designed to increase the efficiency of vehicles. The survey found that over half (53 per cent) of car executives expect hybrid fuel to attract the most auto industry investment over the next five years, while 54 per cent of those polled said they expect suppliers of electric components, such as battery, e-motor and power electric companies, to gain a significant role in the automotive value chain between now and 2025. Share
Which new car options to choose – and which to avoid
So you’ve decided which car to buy, but there are still plenty of choices to make – that’s where the new car options list comes in. Choose wisely and you can turn your good car into a great one, but choose poorly and the options could cost you a lot of money and make your car hard to sell on. So read on for our advice on how to choose the best new car options. What are optional extras? Optional extras are features that aren’t included as part of a particular model’s standard set of equipment but are available at additional cost. Every new car has a different range of options available, and they’ll be priced differently according to the make and model you choose. Options can range from alternative paint colours to different interior materials, gearboxes, alloy wheels and extra in-car technology. There are no hard and fast rules here, but these days most cars come with features like alloy wheels, electric windows, a radio and central locking. Most models of new cars on sale are available in a variety of different ‘trims’. These are priced differently and have different names depending on the manufacturer. The most familiar trims include Ford’s Zetec, Land Rover’s Vogue and Volkswagen’s GTI. Importantly, the trims all feature different amounts of standard equipment – the more you pay, the more equipment you get as standard. If you choose the trim level carefully, you can minimise the amount you’ll need to spend on options. How do I buy optional extras? When you order your new car, you’ll have the opportunity to choose from the options list. Most car manufacturers will list these options, and their prices, in brochures. And the more common options will likely be fitted to some of the cars available in your showroom. We recommend you test as many of your desired options before you order them, as their quality can vary enormously. For example, some expensive sat-navs fitted from the factory are little better than a standalone unit you could buy from a shop for £100. The cost of car options More and more motorists buy new cars on some sort of new car finance deal. Although traditional hire purchase remains popular, it’s the promise of cheaper monthly repayments provided by personal contract purchases (PCPs) that have really changed the way we buy cars. The beauty of PCPs is the ability to add on expensive options but only increase your monthly repayments by a few pounds. But tread carefully, because it’s possible to almost double the cost of your car – and your monthly car loan repayments – without really noticing. A MINI Cooper costing £15,500, can be pushed to more than £26,000, and it’s possible to add nearly £20,000 worth of options to a BMW 3 Series 320d, which increases its price by more than 55%. Company car options The value of any added options affects company car drivers too. The amount you’ll pay in company car tax is linked to the list price of the car (the price you’d pay at a dealer including options priced at more than £100, but excluding any discounts) and recorded for tax purposes as the P11D value. The higher the P11D value, the more you’ll pay in company car tax. The best new car options It sounds trite, but the best new car options are the ones you’ll get the most use from. Features like automatic self-parking might sound appealing, but you need to consider whether you’ll actually use them. That can be hard to work out until you buy the car, but it’s a decision you’ll need to make. From a purely financial point of view, there are options that are essential in order to ensure your car achieves the best price when you come to sell it. Air-conditioning is fitted to many, if not the majority, of new cars. That means if yours hasn’t got it, it may be harder to sell, and therefore worth less. The same applies to metallic paint. Other must-have options depend on the type of car you’re buying. Upmarket models are generally more desirable with leather seats and automatic gearboxes. Features that make your car easier to live with, such as parking sensors and sat-nav, are a good choice too, especially on larger cars. It’s important to remember that like the car as a whole, you’ll only recoup a percentage of the price of your options when you come to sell. Choosing leather seats might increase your car’s used value by £500 but might cost £2,000 in the first place. Not all options cost extra though. You’ll often be presented with a choice of ‘no-cost options’ meaning you’ll need to decide whether you want things like a space-saving spare wheel or tyre inflation foam (for the record, we always recommend the former). And in the case of sportier models, such as Audi S line or BMW M Sport models, you’ll have the option of replacing the uncomfortable sports suspension with a standard setup. Again, we recommend you do so. New car options to avoid It’s not really worth choosing lavish options, such as leather seats, on smaller, cheaper cars such as a Ford Fiesta. Such features are relatively rare on cars of this type, so used car buyers don’t really expect or need them, meaning they won’t really increase the car’s value. Over the last few years, there has been an explosion in the range of customisation options available. These usually consist of different ways you can dress up your car with contrasting paintwork, stickers, alloy wheel designs and interior trims. Cars like the MINI Hatchback, Vauxhall Adam and Fiat 500 have made a virtue of this to the extent that it’s conceivable there are some entirely unique examples on Britain’s roads. While it’s true to say you should buy the options you want and need, you should bear in mind that your choices could put off many potential buyers – decreasing your car’s value as a result. It’s important to remember that second-hand car values are driven primarily by dealers. If they become nervous because they don’t know how an individual buyer will react to an unusual colour scheme, for example, they’ll be willing to pay less for it. Rupert Pontin, head of valuations at used car price guide Glass’s said: “Factors such as colour have always had a large impact on used car values but the trend towards increasing visual personalisation is magnifying the effect. “You could have two Vauxhall Adams that are ostensibly the same on paper but, in the metal, are clearly hundreds or thousands of pounds apart in value because of choices that the original buyer made. “The mauve supermini with a tartan roof and yellow wing mirrors running on 13 inch white alloys might look horrendous to a middle aged man like me but great to a 17-year-old who has just passed their test. “The problem is that the trade finds it very difficult to know how to value some of these vehicles so will tend to price them down in order to minimise the financial risk.” More options or a more expensive trim? The new car options minefield is extraordinarily complex. But as a new car buyer you can get around this by upgrading the trim level you buy. You might spend £1,500 on options on a cheaper, lower level trim, but it might cost about the same to upgrade to the next trim up in the range. As well as making the new car purchase more straightforward, savvy used car buyers will see more value in a higher-spec trim than they will in a series of unrelated options. As such, they’ll usually pay more for it. Used car options The number of options you can choose on a used car is more limited than if you were buying a new car. Most options are installed at the factory and can’t be fitted at a later date. However most main dealers offer a range of accessories, ranging from tow bars to approved car mats. By buying used, you can take advantage of the money the original purchaser spent on options without paying as much for them.
Mercedes-Benz To Follow Tesla With Its Own Home Batteries
014 Mercedes-Benz B-Class Electric Drive – First Drive, May 2014 Tesla Motors [NSDQ:TSLA] may be the first automaker to try selling standalone battery packs for powering homes and businesses, but it may not be the only one for long. Mercedes-Benz could soon enter the energy storage business as well. A division of parent company Daimler has been testing battery packs that can power houses or store excess electricity from the grid, and plans to launch commercially in September. Called ACCUmotive, this division was created in 2009 to develop lithium-ion batteries. Like Tesla before its recent announcement, the Daimler arm has been testing energy storage systems under the radar for some time. It recently built an energy storage array operated by German electricity joint venture Coulomb. The array consists of 96 lithium-ion modules that together boast a combined 500 kilowatt hours of storage capacity, which is used to stabilize the Saxony Kamenz power grid. There are plans to expand it to 3,000 kWh of capacity. ACCUmotive has reportedly delivered more than 60,000 lithium-ion cells to customers—which may include Mercedes itself—and employs more than 250 people. Now it appears ready to expand even further. Mercedes, together with ACCUmotive, says it is testing battery packs for “light industrial, commercial, and private” applications, in sizes ranging from 2.5 kWh to 5.9 kWh. Individual packs can also be combined to provide more storage capacity for a given site, the company says. While Tesla’s decision to get into energy storage seems somewhat logical given the connection to its existing electric car business and Elon Musk’s SolarCity, Mercedes’ decision appears less straightforward. Tesla’s plans are partially fueled by the massive battery ‘Gigafactory’ it’s already building in Nevada, primarily to provide lithium-ion cells for the upcoming Model 3 electric car. Mercedes offers the B-Class Electric Drive, Smart Fortwo Electric Drive, and a growing range of plug-in hybrids, but it probably isn’t aiming for the same volumes. It also doesn’t have a Gigafactory of its own to churn out large numbers of cells for both electric cars and energy storage. But given its high-profile brand name, Mercedes could offer some competition for Tesla in the growing energy-storage market.
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